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Knowledge Base

What is it and what is it used for?

Ingredients on labels, skin and hair terms, makeup and fragrance concepts. The short answer to your question comes first, with the details right below.

Ingredients

AHA

AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) is the common name for acids that dissolve in water and make it easier for dead cells on the skin surface to shed; glycolic acid is the smallest member of this family. It can help with roughness, dullness, and mild tone unevenness. For home use, the framework is 10% or below with a pH of 3,5 or above, and sun protection is part of this framework.

Ingredients

Allantoin

Allantoin (INCI: Allantoin) is a small molecule that is the end product of purine breakdown in most mammals; it occurs naturally in the root of comfrey, while the cosmetic version is synthetic. It is very common in soothing and skin-protecting products and is well tolerated, but its evidence is weaker than assumed: in the largest clinical study, it did not outperform a cream without allantoin.

Ingredients

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is a fleshy-leaved plant, Aloe barbadensis Miller. Its leaf has three parts: outer rind, yellow latex and inner gel. About 99,5% of the gel is water; the remaining solids contain polysaccharides such as acemannan. In cosmetics it appears on labels as Aloe Barbadensis and acts as a humectant.

Ingredients

Arbutin

Arbutin is a skin-lightening ingredient formed by attaching a glucose molecule to hydroquinone, used to slow melanin production. The beta form is found in plants such as bearberry and pear; the alpha form is produced enzymatically. In the EU, alpha arbutin is limited to 2% in face cream and beta arbutin to 7%, and the hydroquinone present must not exceed trace levels.

Ingredients

Argan Oil

Argan oil is a vegetable oil obtained from the kernel of the Argania spinosa tree, which is native to Morocco; it mainly contains oleic and linoleic acids, plus gamma-tocopherol and rarely seen plant sterols. There are small studies on moisture and elasticity of the skin. Because of allergy reports, a patch test should be done first.

Ingredients

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is an oleic-acid-rich oil obtained not from the seed but from the flesh of the fruit; it also contains palmitic acid and plant sterols. Collagen and wound data come largely from rat studies. Few human studies examine the oil alone, and no controlled hair data are known.

Ingredients

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid whose structure differs from AHA and BHA; it is used for acne, rosacea redness, and dark spots because it can act on bacteria, inflammation, and pigment together. Strong evidence comes from 15% gel and 20% cream, licensed as drugs, and cannot be transferred exactly to 10% and lower cosmetic products. Results take weeks, and a doctor determines the diagnosis and plan.

Ingredients

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a compound isolated from the plant Psoralea corylifolia, which is structurally unlike retinol, and is often promoted as a retinol alternative. In a 44-person, 12-week comparison, wrinkles and spots decreased in both groups, and stinging and peeling were seen less with bakuchiol; but this does not mean equivalence. Because its safety in pregnancy has not been shown, the decision should be left to a doctor.

Ingredients

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient that reduces acne-causing bacteria, loosens blockages, and is classed as a drug in many countries. In studies, a 2,5% gel was found to be as effective as 5% and 10% in inflamed acne, while higher concentrations mostly led to more irritation. It can bleach fabric and hair; for painful, deep, or scarring acne, see a doctor.

Ingredients

Beta Glucan

Beta glucan is a water-binding polysaccharide found in oats, barley, yeast and mushrooms. In skin care it is used to form a film on the surface to reduce water loss and to calm reddened skin. In small studies, moisture and barrier measurements improved; however, a direct human study showing it is superior to hyaluronic acid is not known.

Ingredients

Biotin

Biotin, also known as vitamin B7, is a water-soluble vitamin; in the body it is the auxiliary molecule of five enzymes that process fat, glucose and amino acids. In cosmetics it is used as a hair and skin care ingredient at very low concentrations. There is no solid study showing that applied biotin produces hair growth or reduces shedding.

Ingredients

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is a sesquiterpene alcohol found in the essential oil of German chamomile and the candeia tree, used in cosmetics as a soothing agent. In cell and animal experiments it reduces inflammatory markers; data showing its effect in humans on its own are few, as most studies used multi-ingredient formulas. Allergy has been reported, though rarely.

Ingredients

Wheat Protein

Wheat protein is the broken-down form of protein obtained from wheat; it appears on labels as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. In hair it attaches to the strand, small peptides can move into the strand and slow water loss, but it does not repair the strand. People with a wheat allergy should be careful: in Japan, a facial soap containing this kind of protein led to thousands of allergy cases.

Ingredients

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble antioxidant and is needed for the collagen-producing enzymes of the skin. It neutralises free radicals and may slow melanin production. Its most studied form breaks down easily with air, light and heat; its derivatives are more stable, but human data for them are weaker.

Ingredients

Witch Hazel

Witch hazel is an ingredient prepared from the bark, leaves or twigs of the North American plant Hamamelis virginiana. Bark and leaves contain tannins, while the water distillates on the market are often alcoholic. There are small studies on mild redness; strong human data on acne are not known.

Ingredients

Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola or cica, is a plant used in soothing care; its effect is thought to come from saponins such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. It may help reduce the look of redness and support moisture in dry skin, but the clearest data comes from wound and laser aftercare studies. Being plant-based does not eliminate the risk of allergy.

Skin

Skin Barrier

The skin barrier is the function of the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, which keeps water inside and irritants outside; cells act like bricks, and lipids such as ceramides and cholesterol act like mortar. When it weakens, even a simple moisturizer can sting, and skin can dry out and flake. To recover, you pause active products and continue with a gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen; this process can take weeks or months.

Ingredients

Caffeine

Caffeine (INCI: Caffeine) is a small, water-soluble methylxanthine molecule; it can pass into the skin and hair roots, and inside the cell it inhibits phosphodiesterase. It is used in eye-area, cellulite and scalp products. For all three claims the data come from small, short studies, mostly of multi-ingredient formulas.

Ingredients

Keratin

Keratin is the main structural protein of hair, the outer layer of skin and nails; the durability and flexibility of the hair strand depend largely on it. Care products use hydrolyzed keratin, the broken-down form; it supports the strand from its surface but cannot rebuild lost structure, and its effect fades with washing. Keratin straightening in salons, on the other hand, is a separate chemical process.

Ingredients

Coenzyme Q10

Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) is a fat-soluble molecule that the body makes itself, involved in energy production in cells and in antioxidant defence. Its level in the skin decreases with age, but the measured decline is not as large as marketing suggests. It can reach the epidermis via a cream; wrinkle data are small and largely manufacturer-sourced.

Ingredients

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a skin-brightening ingredient: a tyrosinase-inhibiting molecule in the melanin production chain, produced by moulds such as Aspergillus and Penicillium. In the EU it may be used only in face and hand products, at most 1%. Allergy has been reported, though rarely, and thyroid findings in animal experiments were decisive in discussing this limit.

Ingredients

Collagen

Collagen is a family of structural proteins that give firmness to the middle layer of the skin; type I makes up most of adult skin collagen. Its production slows after the twenties, and sunlight accelerates its breakdown. The hair strand itself is keratin. Hydrolyzed collagen in cosmetics does not replace the skin's collagen; it works as a humectant.

Ingredients

Colloidal Oatmeal

Colloidal oatmeal is a powder obtained by finely grinding whole oat grains that disperses in water. Starch and beta-glucan coat the skin's surface, and avenanthramides show a soothing effect in the laboratory. There are controlled studies on dry, itchy skin, but most are short, and a significant portion is sector-funded; oat sensitivity should also not be neglected.

Hair

Dry Shampoo

Dry shampoo is a powder or spray product that absorbs excess oil at the roots without using water. It contains starch, clay or alcohol; it makes hair look cleaner and fuller, but does not remove sweat, dead skin or product residue. After one or two uses, you need to wash your hair with water and shampoo; if itching or burning occurs, stop using it.

Ingredients

Rosehip Oil

Rosehip oil is an oil obtained from the seed or fruit of Rosa species, very rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, and prone to rapid spoilage. There is promising animal data on wound models, but no controlled human study is known showing that it reduces wrinkles the way a retinoid does.

Ingredients

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an AHA, a molecule about twice the size of glycolic acid. It is often said to be gentler and to carry less risk on darker skin; but this view rests more on molecular size and clinical peel studies. Strong data comparing it side by side with glycolic acid in home products are scarce.

Skin

Melasma

Melasma is a chronic pigment problem triggered by sun and hormones, which usually leaves symmetrical dark patches on both sides of the face; it is not cancer, but it is hard to clear and can recur. Since other spots and some skin cancers can resemble it, diagnosis should be made by a dermatologist. Care products do not treat it; the real support is strict sun protection.

Ingredients

Menthol

Menthol is a compound found in mint species or produced synthetically; it does not actually cool the skin, but gives a sensation of coolness by stimulating the TRPM8 cold receptor on nerve endings. Low concentrations cause no problems for most people, but it can irritate sensitive skin, and burns have rarely been reported with high-concentration pain products.

Skin

Milia

Milia are small white cysts that are not pimples. They form when dead skin cells become trapped beneath the surface, and they are harmless. Since their top is covered by skin, squeezing does not work and can cause scarring and infection; in adults they may disappear on their own within weeks or months. If stubborn, a dermatologist can remove them with sterile tools; a growing or bleeding bump requires examination.

Ingredients

Panthenol

Panthenol is a care ingredient that, when applied to the skin, converts to vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and attracts water; it may help support the feeling of moisture in skin and hair, and the recovery of the barrier in skin. The most solid data is on moisture and water loss; findings on hair strand strength are limited to the laboratory. There is no evidence that it stops hair shedding; a doctor should be seen for eczema that does not go away or a deep wound.

Fragrance

Perfume Notes

Perfume notes are impression descriptions that divide a scent into three layers, top, middle, and base, showing the order in which they are noticed. The top note determines the first minutes, the middle note gives the main character, and the base note stays on the skin hours later; this order comes from the molecules evaporating at different rates. A note list does not count as an ingredient list, and to decide you need to wait at least 30 minutes.

Ingredients

PDRN (Salmon DNA)

PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) mostly consists of DNA fragments purified from salmon or trout milt. Its main evidence comes from injection and wound healing studies; injection is a physician procedure, not a cosmetic one. In creams and serums, how much of this large molecule penetrates is debated, human data are very few, and injection results cannot be carried over to a cream.

Ingredients

Peptide

A peptide is a structure smaller than a protein, formed by amino acids joining in short chains; it is used in creams to reduce the look of fine lines and roughness. Human studies are small and short, and getting past the skin is also a main obstacle, so expecting a mild effect is realistic. It does not replace sunscreen or retinol, and it does not act like a botox injection.

Ingredients

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)

PHA (polyhydroxy acid) is the name for gentle exfoliating acids such as gluconolactone, which carry many hydroxyl groups and have larger molecules than AHAs. It holds water and, in comparison, has caused less stinging than glycolic acid. It is considered for sensitive skin, but part of the data is manufacturer-linked and its effect may fall somewhat behind glycolic acid.

Ingredients

Polyglutamic Acid (PGA)

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a long chain of glutamic acid produced by bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis, and also found in the sticky part of natto. It is used to form a water-holding film on the skin surface. Human data are limited; claims that it is superior to hyaluronic acid and holds thousands of times its weight in water have not been shown by independent studies.

Hair

Hair Botox

Hair botox is a marketing name given to care or straightening products; it contains no botulinum toxin and has no legal or scientific definition. The same name can describe a mask rinsed at home or a chemical treatment fixed with heat in a salon, so you need to look at the ingredient list. Its effect is temporary, and it does not solve hair loss.

Hair

Hair Protectant

Hair protectant is a general name for hair products that aim to support the strand against external factors such as heat, friction, sun or colour fading; there is no single formula or recognised official definition. Heat protectant is one type within this group. These products may help reduce damage, but they do not reverse damage that has already occurred and do not replace basic measures such as lowering the heat.

Hair

Hair Conditioner

Hair conditioner (balm) is a product applied after shampoo and rinsed off, which softens the hair and makes combing easier. At its core are positively charged cationic substances; these attach to the negatively charged hair surface and reduce static and friction between strands. Its effect is superficial, fades with washing, and does not repair damaged hair.

Hair

Hair Mask

A hair mask is an intensive hair care product applied after shampoo, left on for a while, and rinsed off. At its core are cationic substances and fatty alcohols; most formulas also contain silicones, hydrolyzed protein or oils. It softens the strand, reduces friction and makes the surface look even, but it does not reverse damage, lengthen hair or stop hair loss.

Hair

Hair Perfume

Hair perfume is a light, leave-in spray made to give hair a pleasant scent. Its formula highlights water, alcohol and fragrance ingredients, and care additives such as glycerin or panthenol may also be present. Tell it apart from regular perfume by the ingredient list, not by the name: do not assume it is alcohol-free, and do not treat it as a substitute for a care or heat protection step.

Hair

Hair Serum

Hair serum is a leave-in liquid care product that leaves a thin film on the surface of the hair and is used in very small amounts. Silicone-based ones aim to reduce friction and puffiness; oil-based ones help soften the surface. The effect is superficial and fades with washing: it does not close broken ends or renew the inside of the strand.

Ingredients

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can penetrate into pores because it dissolves in oil, and it is most often tried on blackheads and whiteheads. It is found at 0,5-2% in over-the-counter products; starting infrequently and not skipping the moisturizer limits dryness. It is insufficient for severe acne; during pregnancy, breastfeeding, and in young children, ask a doctor first.

Ingredients

Snail Mucin

Snail mucin, listed on labels as Snail Secretion Filtrate, is the filtered form of snail secretion. It contains allantoin, glycolic acid, proteins and glycosaminoglycans, and may give a sense of moisture and softness. The evidence is limited to a few small studies, and it has not been shown in independent trials to be superior to a good moisturiser.

Ingredients

Ceramide

Ceramide is the main component of the lipids that hold cells together in the uppermost layer of skin; when applied as a cream, it can help dry and sensitive skin feel more comfortable by slowing water loss. Barrier measurements show positive results, but in eczema severity, a ceramide product has not always outperformed a placebo cream in every study. The practical way to add it to your routine is to apply a ceramide moisturizer after washing, while the skin is still damp.

Skin

Serum

A serum is a light, quickly spreading liquid carrying an active that targets a specific concern; it does not replace the moisturizer that slows water loss. It is applied in a few drops after cleansing and before cream, and for most people one serum at a time is enough. If there is a second target, putting one in the morning and the other in the evening reduces the risk of irritation.

Ingredients

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a semi-solid vegetable fat at room temperature, obtained from the kernel of the shea tree that grows in Africa. It contains oleic and stearic acids in close proportions and leaves a softening film on the skin. There are small studies on eczema; human data on whether it clogs pores are weak.

Ingredients

Silicone

Silicone is a family of synthetic polymers built on a chain of silicon and oxygen, giving slipperiness and a smooth feel in cosmetics; the best known are dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane. Safety assessments find the dimethicone group safe as used, and the European Union restriction covers only certain cyclic silicones, mainly for environmental reasons.

Skin

Skin Cycling

Skin cycling is an evening care schedule for using actives without overloading the skin, following a sequence of one night of acid, one night of retinoid and then two nights of rest. The idea of using actives on infrequent, separate nights is established, but there is no study showing this particular sequence is superior to other arrangements. Because it contains a retinoid, it is not suitable in pregnancy and breastfeeding, and in rosacea or eczema, ask a doctor first.

Ingredients

Squalane

Squalane is a light oil obtained by hydrogenating squalene found in sebum; it is not easily degraded by air and can give softness to the skin and a smooth look to hair ends. Since it does not provide water, it is not a substitute for a moisturizer. Because it has no strong clinical evidence for wrinkles, spots or acne, keep expectations limited to a softening step.

Sun

SPF

SPF means sun protection factor; it is a ratio showing the protection a cream provides against the rays that cause burning, mainly UVB. It does not say how many hours you can stay in the sun. In percentage terms, the difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50 seems small, but the light reaching the skin at SPF 50 is about 40% less. The value is measured with an amount of 2 mg/cm²; if less is applied, the protection drops.

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