What Is Coconut Oil, Is It Harmful? Skin and Hair Data

As Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil on the label, the distinctive feature of this oil is its saturated fat share. Since more than 90% of its fatty acids are saturated, it solidifies in cool air and liquefies when it melts in the palm. There is no single answer to "is it harmful?", because the same oil may cause problems on an acne-prone face while doing its job on dry legs. The answer depends on where you apply it.

Who might have problems with coconut oil?

Where a trigger for seborrheic dermatitis may lie, you can find it on a separate page. If the scalp is red and flaky, see a dermatologist for diagnosis.

Is lauric acid good or bad?

Both can be true, because they answer two different questions. About 49% of the fatty acids are lauric, 18% myristic, 8% palmitic, 8% caprylic and 7% capric acid. Lauric acid is a medium-chain fatty acid with 12 carbons, and in the laboratory it suppressed the growth of acne-related bacteria at low concentrations (1-4 µg/ml). At the same time, lauric-rich oils score high in comedone formation tests. These tests were mostly done on animal ears, so they do not transfer directly to the human face, but the direction they point to should not be ignored.

An antibacterial result in a cell dish cannot be turned into "good for acne". We do not know of a well-designed human study testing pure oil on acne. If you have frequent acne on your face, using this oil like a covering cream increases the risk.

What data are there on protein loss in hair?

The findings that set this oil apart in hair care come from three laboratory studies, all on cut hair:

• Entry into the strand (2001): Mass spectrometry showed that the oil enters the hair shaft, while mineral oil does not. The authors attribute this to the oil's polar structure and its affinity for protein.
• Protein loss (2003): On damaged and undamaged hair, when applied before or after washing, protein loss was markedly reduced. This reduction was not seen with sunflower oil or mineral oil.
• Film effect (2005): An oil layer thicker than about 0,5 µm covers the cuticle structure of the hair. So applying too much also changes the appearance.

These findings are important, but they have limits. We do not know a controlled study in human hair under real-use conditions showing that it reduces breakage. There is no measured figure for the waiting time either. The most consistent use with this data is applying the oil to the lengths before shampooing and then washing. The findings for other oils are not as consistent; for comparison see the argan oil article.

Has its effect on dry skin and eczema been measured?

Both studies used virgin oil; do not transfer the result to refined oil. The second study is promising, but it is not enough to use the oil in place of treatment. If you or your child has eczema, consult your doctor before adding oil to the routine. Do not apply oil to cracked, oozing or infected areas.

Two frequently confused topics

• Ingredients starting with Coco-: Names such as Cocamidopropyl Betaine or Coco-Glucoside are not the oil itself, but cleansing substances derived from it. A reaction to the oil is not the same as a reaction to these substances. If you reacted to one of the derivatives, do not assume the oil will also cause a problem; ask your doctor for a patch test.
• Using it as a tanning oil: Coconut oil is not a sunscreen. Applying oil and staying in the sun does not protect the skin from UV damage. Outdoors, use a broad-spectrum product of at least SPF 30 and renew it every 2 hours and after sweating or swimming. Details are in the tanning article.

To assess the possibility of allergy, try a new product on the inner arm or elbow crease, twice a day, for 7-10 days. Do not use oil that has turned sour; keep it closed in a cool place.