What Is Argan Oil, What Does It Do? Ingredients and Skin Data
Other names: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Argan oil is a vegetable oil obtained from the kernel of the Argania spinosa tree, which is native to Morocco; it mainly contains oleic and linoleic acids, plus gamma-tocopherol and rarely seen plant sterols. There are small studies on moisture and elasticity of the skin. Because of allergy reports, a patch test should be done first.
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- INCI name
- Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
- Source
- Kernel of the argan tree, native to Morocco
- Fatty acids
- About 46% oleic, 34% linoleic, 12% palmitic, 6% stearic
- Vitamin E
- Mainly gamma-tocopherol
- Evidence
- Small and short skin studies; no large controlled data
- Caution
- Contact allergy and rare anaphylaxis have been reported
What's on this page?
The argan tree (Argania spinosa) belongs to the Sapotaceae family and grows naturally in Morocco. The oil is extracted from the inner part of the hard kernel of the fruit. In cosmetics you will mostly see it on the ingredient list rather than on the packaging: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. Its use in hair is described in the argan oil for hair guide; here we look at the oil's composition and the skin data.
How does the composition of argan oil differ from olive oil?
How a fat behaves on the skin is largely determined by its fatty acids. The closest comparison is olive oil, since oleic acid predominates in both. Values vary with place of production; sample measurements from one review are as follows:
| Component | Argan oil | Olive oil |
|---|---|---|
| Oleic acid | %45,9 | %76,9 |
| Linoleic acid | %34,1 | %6,1 |
| Palmitic acid | %11,8 | %11,7 |
| Stearic acid | %6,0 | %3,0 |
| Gamma-tocopherol | Approximately 715 mg/kg | Approximately 4 mg/kg |
| Alpha-tocopherol | Approximately 42 mg/kg | Approximately 88 mg/kg |
| Schottenol (plant sterol) | Approximately 849 mg/kg | Not detected |
Two points in the table make argan oil different. The first is its high linoleic acid: this fatty acid plays a direct role in the water-impermeability of the skin barrier, while oleic acid can disrupt the barrier with continuous application. Argan oil contains both in high proportions, so the result cannot be read from the fatty acid table alone. The second is the tocopherol distribution: alpha-tocopherol is the most abundant member of the vitamin E family in human tissue, whereas the gamma form predominates in argan oil. These tocopherols are thought first to protect the oil itself against oxidation. The oil also contains rare sterols such as schottenol and spinasterol, and squalene.
What data exist on use in the skin?
Studies with argan oil are limited. The most cited are two papers by the same research group with post-menopausal women.
| Study | Measured | Result | Its limit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60 women, 60 days, argan oil on the left forearm; also argan or olive oil taken orally | Water loss and epidermal water | Water loss decreased and water content increased on the treated arm | Single centre, no placebo cream for the applied oil |
| Same women, same regimen | Skin elasticity | Elasticity measurements improved significantly | The authors regard this as a preliminary step towards a larger study |
| 20 volunteers, multi-ingredient oil-control cream | Facial oil | Oil level decreased by 20%, oily area decreased by 42% | Argan oil was not tested alone |
So phrases such as "renews the skin" or "removes wrinkles" have no strong data behind them. Information on wound healing also largely comes from rat studies. A cautious reading is this: argan oil may give mild moisture and softness support on dry skin; it is not used for therapeutic purposes. There is no measured dose for drops. As an example, adding a few drops to the face cream is a reasonable starting point; reduce it if it weighs down the skin.
Is cosmetic argan oil different from cooking oil?
Yes, because the production method differs. Cooking oil is made from roasted kernels, which is where the nutty smell and taste come from. Cosmetic oil is extracted from unroasted kernels.
- Traditional method: Takes about 10 hours per litre, yield around 30%.
- Mechanical pressing: About 30 minutes per litre, yield around 45%. Can be done with roasted or unroasted kernels.
- Solvent extraction: Yield 50-55%; used only in cosmetics; odourless and tasteless.
Because it has a high proportion of unsaturated fat, it is stored in a closed container, away from light and heat. Do not apply oil that has turned sour or smells rancid to the skin.
Does argan oil cause allergies?
Being plant-based does not mean it will not cause allergies. Verified cases of allergic contact dermatitis from argan oil have been published, confirmed by patch testing, in a baby and in a patient with scalp psoriasis, and an anaphylaxis case has been reported. How often this happens is unknown, and the component responsible for the allergy has not been identified.
- If you have a hazelnut or other nut allergy, ask your doctor before use.
- If you plan to apply it to your face regularly, first apply it to the inner arm or elbow crease, twice a day, for 7-10 days.
- If you have acne-prone skin, monitor it for a few weeks. There is no reliable measurement of the oil's effect on sebum alone.
- Do not apply to baby skin or to a wounded area without consulting your doctor.
This page is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment. If you have an ongoing skin or scalp problem, consult a dermatologist.
