What Is Vitamin E (Tocopherol), What Does It Do? Its Relation to Vitamin C

Vitamin E is not a single substance but a family of four tocopherols and four tocotrienols. The most abundant in food is gamma-tocopherol, while in human tissue the dominant form is alpha-tocopherol. Being fat-soluble, it works inside the cell membrane and in the skin's surface lipids. When an oil molecule begins to oxidise, it acts as the antioxidant that stops the chain reaction.

On the label, is it Tocopherol or Tocopheryl Acetate?

The two names come from the same family, but they behave differently in the formula and on the skin.

Data on conversion conflict. One group reported little conversion of this in human skin, other groups saw moderate conversion, and some mouse studies detected no conversion at all. So seeing Tocopheryl Acetate on the list does not tell you how much the antioxidant in the product works in the skin. It is reported to be commonly present at 0,5-1% in non-prescription anti-ageing creams. Cosmetic safety assessments have also found the use of this family to be safe.

How is vitamin E depleted in the skin?

Sunlight reduces vitamin E in the uppermost layer of the skin. In one measurement, sun exposure lowered the level in the stratum corneum by more than 50%. Supplementation from outside also appears possible: in one trial, a vitamin E body wash raised the level in the upper layer about 3 times more than a daily tablet, without changing the blood level. A rising level alone does not show that the skin is protected, but it shows that the vitamin reaches the surface layer.

In the studies, applied vitamin E reduced UVB-induced lipid oxidation, oedema and sunburn cells. For this reason it is frequently found in sun products, but it does not replace sunscreen.

How is the link with vitamin C established?

The two vitamins work in different regions and complement each other. Vitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant, itself turns into a radical, and water-soluble vitamin C gives it an electron to restore it. This explains why the two are seen together in products.

The most often cited data come from pig skin. L-ascorbic acid at 15% and alpha-tocopherol at 1%, applied for 4 days, raised the antioxidant protection factor about 4 times. Each vitamin alone was also protective, but the combination proved superior. When ferulic acid was added, the factor rose to about 8 times. It cannot be said that this result applies directly to human skin, and some of the researchers' ties to industry have been noted.

Does applying it to scars help?

Breaking open a vitamin E capsule and applying it to a scar is a common habit, but the data do not support it. In a small study with 15 people after surgery, vitamin E did not improve, or made worse, the appearance of the scar in 90% of cases, and contact dermatitis developed in 33% of participants. A later systematic review also stated there is not enough evidence to show a meaningful benefit from vitamin E applied alone to scars. Results of burn and scar studies have generally been disappointing.

Contact allergy: How often, and where is it seen?

Vitamin E is not considered a common allergen, but it is not zero risk either. The rates in patch-tested patients are as follows:

These rates belong to people who were already referred for testing because of a skin problem. The frequency for the general population is not known. Among the products causing reactions, personal care products, particularly moisturisers, stand out most often. Very rarely, erythema multiforme and xanthoma-like reactions have also been published.

• Try the new product first on the inner arm or elbow crease, twice a day, for 7-10 days.
• If redness, itching or a rash starts, stop the product. If it recurs often, you can ask a dermatologist about contact dermatitis.
• High-dose oral vitamin E is a separate matter. It can affect bleeding risk and vitamin K metabolism; ask your doctor before use.