What Is Rosehip Oil, What Does It Do? The Retinoid Claim

Rosehip oil does not come from a single plant. Oils on the market are extracted from species such as Rosa canina, Rosa rubiginosa and Rosa moschata, sometimes from the seed and sometimes from the whole fruit. The label name gives this away: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil and Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil are not the same product. A value measured in one species cannot be carried over unchanged to another; keep this in mind when reading the findings on this page.

Why are its fatty acids so unsaturated?

Although the proportions vary by species and measurement, the direction is the same: polyunsaturated oils dominate. A review gives 36-55% linoleic, 17-27% alpha-linolenic and 15-22% oleic acid. In a sample measurement for rosa canina fruit oil, the values were 46% linoleic, 31% alpha-linolenic and 12% oleic acid. The orange colour comes from carotenoids such as beta-carotene and lycopene; tocopherols are also present in the oil. For comparison, the polyunsaturated fat share is around 34% in argan oil, while in rosehip oil it approaches 80%.

Does rosehip oil contain retinoid?

The most frequently heard claim is that it is "natural tretinoin". The basis is small but real: in a production study dated 2006 on rosa rubiginosa seed oil, all-trans retinoic acid was measured, and the value was markedly higher in cold-pressed oil than in oil extracted with a solvent. The units of the amounts circulating on sales pages are inconsistent, so we cannot give a reliable ratio.

Being measured does not mean the oil delivers enough to the skin to act as a retinoid. We do not know of a controlled human study showing that applied oil reduces wrinkles. Do not place it alongside prescription tretinoin. Since retinoids are not used in pregnancy and breastfeeding, do not use a product labelled as containing retinoid without consulting your doctor during this period.

What studies exist, and what did they find?

Skin studies with rosehip powder taken orally are also mentioned, but swallowed powder and applied oil are not the same thing. Taken together: cell and animal data are interesting, while the effect of the oil alone in humans is not clear.

Why does it spoil quickly, and how is it on acne-prone skin?

About 80% of its fatty acids are polyunsaturated, and the double bonds react easily with air. In an accelerated heat test, rosehip was the first oil to begin spoiling, ahead of olive, sunflower and jojoba. Oxidised oils are also known to sensitise the skin. Choose a small, dark bottle, keep it cool after opening, and do not use it if it smells sour.

Evidence on the tendency to acne is almost nonexistent. The linoleic acid content is a promising assumption, but we know of no good study testing the oil itself on acne-prone skin. Start in a small area and watch for a few weeks. For the possibility of allergy, first apply it on the inner arm, twice a day, for 7-10 days.