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Ingredients

What Is Ectoin? A Protective Molecule from Extremophile Bacteria

Other names: Ectoine

2 min read
Short answer

Ectoin is a small molecule produced by bacteria living in harsh environments such as salt lakes to protect themselves. It interacts strongly with water and is used in cosmetics for moisture and barrier support. Most data come from atopic dermatitis creams at 5,5-7%; expectations from an ordinary cream should be more modest.

At a glance

INCI name
Ectoin
Type
Small cyclic amino acid derivative, extremolyte
Source
Bacteria from saline environments; biotechnological production
Concentrations studied
1-2% in cosmetic studies, 5,5-7% in atopic dermatitis creams
What it does
Moisture retention, reduced water loss, support for dry and reactive skin
Evidence level
Small studies, largely linked to the manufacturer
What Is Ectoin? A Protective Molecule from Extremophile Bacteria
What's on this page?
  1. What does ectoin do in the skin?
  2. How strong is the evidence for ectoin?
  3. What can you expect from an ordinary ectoin cream?

Salt lakes, drought and intense radiation are conditions that are lethal for most living things. Some micro-organisms living there accumulate small molecules called extremolytes to protect their cells. Ectoin is one of these. Chemically it is a cyclic amino acid derivative, and the cosmetics sector has borrowed it for its property of protecting proteins and cell membranes against dryness.

What does ectoin do in the skin?

The proposed mechanism is that ectoin forms a water shell around proteins and membranes. In computer simulations, ectoin-water clusters remained stable for longer at high temperature than glycerin-water clusters. In measurements with an oil-in-water emulsion, transepidermal water loss changed in favour of the barrier. Cell experiments showed it reduces stress signals triggered by UVA and mitochondrial DNA damage. The authors of these basic studies worked for the company that developed ectoin, so independent replication is needed.

How strong is the evidence for ectoin?

A peer-reviewed systematic review found only six clinical studies. Five were on atopic dermatitis and one on retinoid dermatitis. The authors report positive results for dryness and itching, but acknowledge that the certainty of some studies is low. One of the authors is an employee of the manufacturing company.

StudyProductResult
104 healthy women, placebo-controlled2% emulsionMoisture and ageing measurements improved; no side effects reported
65 adults with atopic dermatitis, double-blind, 4 weeks7% cream, against a steroid-free reference creamEffect similar, i.e. equivalence rather than superiority
Atopic dermatitis, aged 2-18, 70 children, 4 weeks1% ectoin and 0,1% hyaluronic acidSeverity score fell more than with the carrier; mild side effects 23,5% versus 5,7%
76 young people taking isotretinoin, 6 months7% cream, compared with a dexpanthenol creamDermatitis 31,3% versus 53,5%; the study is not blinded

What can you expect from an ordinary ectoin cream?

The most studied 5,5-7% range belongs to creams developed for atopic dermatitis. Do not expect the same result from the ectoin in a moisturiser whose concentration is not stated. In dry or easily reactive skin it can be seen as a supporting ingredient; it does not replace an eczema treatment. If your disease is flaring, see your doctor; if children or pregnancy are involved, choose the product together with your doctor.

In the review, the most common side effects were burning, tingling and redness, most of which appeared at first application and passed. 455 people using ectoin, 7 of them stopped due to side effects. Still, do not apply it straight to the face: try it for 7-10 days, twice a day, on the inner arm or elbow crease. The EU cosmetics regulation's restricted substances annexes have no separate record for ectoin.

This page is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment. If you have an ongoing skin or scalp problem, consult a dermatologist.

Knowledge Base
All
Ingredients

Glycerin

Glycerin (INCI: Glycerin) is a humectant that binds water to itself thanks to its three hydroxyl groups, and it also occurs naturally in the skin itself. It increases water-holding capacity in the upper layer of the skin, supports the barrier and is very well tolerated. Because it gives a strongly sticky feel at high concentrations, it is mostly used in formulas together with other ingredients.

Ingredients

Urea

Urea (INCI: Urea) is a small molecule that forms part of the skin's natural moisturising factor. At low concentrations it holds moisture and supports the barrier; above 10% it begins to soften the dead cell layer, and at 30% and above it has a strong keratolytic effect. It can sting on sensitive or cracked skin.

Ingredients

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a water-attracting molecule that occurs naturally in the body and is mostly used in cosmetics as sodium hyaluronate. It makes skin feel more hydrated and soft without adding oil, which is why it is applied to slightly damp skin and then covered with a cream. Its effect lasts as long as you use it; it is not expected to cure spots, acne or deep wrinkles.

Ingredients

Panthenol

Panthenol is a care ingredient that, when applied to the skin, converts to vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and attracts water; it may help support the feeling of moisture in skin and hair, and the recovery of the barrier in skin. The most solid data is on moisture and water loss; findings on hair strand strength are limited to the laboratory. There is no evidence that it stops hair shedding; a doctor should be seen for eczema that does not go away or a deep wound.

Ingredients

Keratin

Keratin is the main structural protein of hair, the outer layer of skin and nails; the durability and flexibility of the hair strand depend largely on it. Care products use hydrolyzed keratin, the broken-down form; it supports the strand from its surface but cannot rebuild lost structure, and its effect fades with washing. Keratin straightening in salons, on the other hand, is a separate chemical process.

Ingredients

Retinol

Retinol is a fat-soluble molecule from the vitamin A family; in the skin it is first converted to retinal, then to its active form, retinoic acid. In this way it can affect cell renewal and genes related to collagen, but it is about 20 times weaker than retinoic acid. It is not used during pregnancy and breastfeeding; consult a doctor.

Ingredients

Zinc

Zinc is not a single ingredient in skin care but the name of compounds that carry the same metal and do different jobs: zinc oxide is a mineral filter against UVA and UVB, while salts such as zinc PCA appear in oil-control and acne products. The area with strong evidence is sun protection; data on sebum and acne is weak or mixed. The zinc pyrithione in dandruff shampoos is banned in cosmetics in the European Union.

Ingredients

Ceramide

Ceramide is the main component of the lipids that hold cells together in the uppermost layer of skin; when applied as a cream, it can help dry and sensitive skin feel more comfortable by slowing water loss. Barrier measurements show positive results, but in eczema severity, a ceramide product has not always outperformed a placebo cream in every study. The practical way to add it to your routine is to apply a ceramide moisturizer after washing, while the skin is still damp.

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