What Is Green Tea Extract, What Does It Do? EGCG and Antioxidant Data
Other names: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Green tea extract is a plant extract obtained from Camellia sinensis leaves and containing catechins, mainly EGCG. There are small studies on sebum and acne in applied forms, and dose-dependent data on UV redness. The evidence is nevertheless limited, and it does not replace sunscreen.
At a glance
- INCI name
- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
- Main agents
- Catechins, especially EGCG
- Role
- Used as an antioxidant and soothing agent
- Evidence
- Limited evidence on sebum and acne in a review of 8 studies
- Concept often confused
- Tea tree oil is a different plant
What's on this page?
The reason green tea extract, listed as Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract on labels, is discussed in relation to skin is the catechins. The most abundant and most studied of these is epigallocatechin gallate, EGCG for short. As an antioxidant, it captures free radicals in the lab, and in cell experiments it reduces inflammatory signals. The question is how much of this reaches the skin from an applied cream. Although the name is similar, tea tree oil comes from a different plant, and the findings on this page do not apply to it.
What was found for sebum and acne?
A review gathering controlled and uncontrolled studies on this topic took 8 of 59 publications into evaluation. The authors' conclusion is "limited evidence". Examples:
| Product | Person and duration | Result | Its limit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5% green tea, on half of the face | 11 healthy men, 60 days | Sebum fell by 27% | Small, men only |
| 2% tea lotion, 2 times a day | 60 people enrolled, 2 months, control lotion | Papules and pustules decreased, no significant change in the control | Short, 49 people completed |
| 1% and 5% EGCG, on half of the face | 35 people, 8 weeks | Acne score fell markedly | Small; the control was only the other half of the face |
| Decaffeinated tea capsule | 80 women, 4 weeks, placebo | No difference in total lesion count | Oral form, not applied |
Although all studies reported positive results, the reviewers note the small groups, the lack of control, and the differing tea types and doses. For this reason green tea extract is not a substitute for standard acne treatment. Its effect on sebum has also been measured only in healthy men.
Does it work against the sun?
Partly, but not as a sunscreen. The applied form and the oral form are separated here. In volunteers, extract and EGCG applied to the skin 30 minutes before UV reduced redness and markers of DNA damage in a dose-dependent manner. In the oral form the results are mixed: in healthy people, 4 weeks of EGCG capsules did not protect against UV redness, while a systematic review of oral tea preparations says the clinical data available relate most to UV damage. So neither "I drink green tea, no sunscreen needed" nor "a green tea cream is enough" can be said. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30, renew it every 2 hours and after sweating or swimming, and see the antioxidant as an additional layer.
Why is it a difficult ingredient in a formula?
- Stability: EGCG can be broken down by air and metal ions. Keep the product closed and in a cool place.
- Entry into the skin: In a human skin study with a 6% extract, EGCG was found mostly in the top layer (stratum corneum). Data on how far it penetrates the deeper layers are limited.
- Label: The phrase "contains green tea" does not state the concentration. Studies have used clear proportions such as 1-5%; an extract at the end of an ingredient list does not mean the same amount.
There is also a prescription ointment made from green tea, used as a drug for genital warts. This is not evidence for cosmetic green tea extract; the use of the medicine is decided by a physician. Some studies of applied forms reported mild stinging and itching; try the new product on the inner arm or elbow crease, twice a day, for 7-10 days.
This page is for general information only and does not replace medical diagnosis or treatment. If you have an ongoing skin or scalp problem, consult a dermatologist.