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Knowledge Base

What is it and what is it used for?

Ingredients on labels, skin and hair terms, makeup and fragrance concepts. The short answer to your question comes first, with the details right below.

AHA

AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) is the common name for acids that dissolve in water and make it easier for dead cells on the skin surface to shed; glycolic acid is the smallest member of this family. It can help with roughness, dullness, and mild tone unevenness. For home use, the framework is 10% or below with a pH of 3,5 or above, and sun protection is part of this framework.

Allantoin

Allantoin (INCI: Allantoin) is a small molecule that is the end product of purine breakdown in most mammals; it occurs naturally in the root of comfrey, while the cosmetic version is synthetic. It is very common in soothing and skin-protecting products and is well tolerated, but its evidence is weaker than assumed: in the largest clinical study, it did not outperform a cream without allantoin.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is a fleshy-leaved plant, Aloe barbadensis Miller. Its leaf has three parts: outer rind, yellow latex and inner gel. About 99,5% of the gel is water; the remaining solids contain polysaccharides such as acemannan. In cosmetics it appears on labels as Aloe Barbadensis and acts as a humectant.

Arbutin

Arbutin is a skin-lightening ingredient formed by attaching a glucose molecule to hydroquinone, used to slow melanin production. The beta form is found in plants such as bearberry and pear; the alpha form is produced enzymatically. In the EU, alpha arbutin is limited to 2% in face cream and beta arbutin to 7%, and the hydroquinone present must not exceed trace levels.

Argan Oil

Argan oil is a vegetable oil obtained from the kernel of the Argania spinosa tree, which is native to Morocco; it mainly contains oleic and linoleic acids, plus gamma-tocopherol and rarely seen plant sterols. There are small studies on moisture and elasticity of the skin. Because of allergy reports, a patch test should be done first.

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is an oleic-acid-rich oil obtained not from the seed but from the flesh of the fruit; it also contains palmitic acid and plant sterols. Collagen and wound data come largely from rat studies. Few human studies examine the oil alone, and no controlled hair data are known.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid whose structure differs from AHA and BHA; it is used for acne, rosacea redness, and dark spots because it can act on bacteria, inflammation, and pigment together. Strong evidence comes from 15% gel and 20% cream, licensed as drugs, and cannot be transferred exactly to 10% and lower cosmetic products. Results take weeks, and a doctor determines the diagnosis and plan.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol is a compound isolated from the plant Psoralea corylifolia, which is structurally unlike retinol, and is often promoted as a retinol alternative. In a 44-person, 12-week comparison, wrinkles and spots decreased in both groups, and stinging and peeling were seen less with bakuchiol; but this does not mean equivalence. Because its safety in pregnancy has not been shown, the decision should be left to a doctor.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient that reduces acne-causing bacteria, loosens blockages, and is classed as a drug in many countries. In studies, a 2,5% gel was found to be as effective as 5% and 10% in inflamed acne, while higher concentrations mostly led to more irritation. It can bleach fabric and hair; for painful, deep, or scarring acne, see a doctor.

Beta Glucan

Beta glucan is a water-binding polysaccharide found in oats, barley, yeast and mushrooms. In skin care it is used to form a film on the surface to reduce water loss and to calm reddened skin. In small studies, moisture and barrier measurements improved; however, a direct human study showing it is superior to hyaluronic acid is not known.

Biotin

Biotin, also known as vitamin B7, is a water-soluble vitamin; in the body it is the auxiliary molecule of five enzymes that process fat, glucose and amino acids. In cosmetics it is used as a hair and skin care ingredient at very low concentrations. There is no solid study showing that applied biotin produces hair growth or reduces shedding.

Bisabolol

Bisabolol is a sesquiterpene alcohol found in the essential oil of German chamomile and the candeia tree, used in cosmetics as a soothing agent. In cell and animal experiments it reduces inflammatory markers; data showing its effect in humans on its own are few, as most studies used multi-ingredient formulas. Allergy has been reported, though rarely.

Wheat Protein

Wheat protein is the broken-down form of protein obtained from wheat; it appears on labels as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. In hair it attaches to the strand, small peptides can move into the strand and slow water loss, but it does not repair the strand. People with a wheat allergy should be careful: in Japan, a facial soap containing this kind of protein led to thousands of allergy cases.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble antioxidant and is needed for the collagen-producing enzymes of the skin. It neutralises free radicals and may slow melanin production. Its most studied form breaks down easily with air, light and heat; its derivatives are more stable, but human data for them are weaker.

Witch Hazel

Witch hazel is an ingredient prepared from the bark, leaves or twigs of the North American plant Hamamelis virginiana. Bark and leaves contain tannins, while the water distillates on the market are often alcoholic. There are small studies on mild redness; strong human data on acne are not known.

Centella Asiatica

Centella asiatica, also known as gotu kola or cica, is a plant used in soothing care; its effect is thought to come from saponins such as madecassoside and asiaticoside. It may help reduce the look of redness and support moisture in dry skin, but the clearest data comes from wound and laser aftercare studies. Being plant-based does not eliminate the risk of allergy.

Tea Tree Oil

Tea tree oil is a volatile oil distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, whose main component is terpinen-4-ol. Its effect against microbes is shown in the lab, while human data on dandruff and acne rest on small studies. Once it deteriorates in air, its allergenic potential increases, and in the EU low concentrations are recommended depending on the product type.

Zinc

Zinc is not a single ingredient in skin care but the name of compounds that carry the same metal and do different jobs: zinc oxide is a mineral filter against UVA and UVB, while salts such as zinc PCA appear in oil-control and acne products. The area with strong evidence is sun protection; data on sebum and acne is weak or mixed. The zinc pyrithione in dandruff shampoos is banned in cosmetics in the European Union.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

Vitamin E (tocopherol) is a family of fat-soluble antioxidants; it helps protect the skin's oily membranes against damage from UV and oxygen. When oxidised, vitamin C can restore it. In cosmetics it is used to protect both the formula and the skin. Although rare, it can cause contact allergy.

Ectoin

Ectoin is a small molecule produced by bacteria living in harsh environments such as salt lakes to protect themselves. It interacts strongly with water and is used in cosmetics for moisture and barrier support. Most data come from atopic dermatitis creams at 5,5-7%; expectations from an ordinary cream should be more modest.

Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is a phenolic antioxidant naturally found in plants. It is most often seen in serums together with vitamins C and E, because in this combination it has been shown to slow the degradation of the vitamins and increase the protection measured against UV. It does not replace sunscreen; its effect on its own has been studied much less.

Glycerin

Glycerin (INCI: Glycerin) is a humectant that binds water to itself thanks to its three hydroxyl groups, and it also occurs naturally in the skin itself. It increases water-holding capacity in the upper layer of the skin, supports the barrier and is very well tolerated. Because it gives a strongly sticky feel at high concentrations, it is mostly used in formulas together with other ingredients.

Rose Water

Rose water is a hydrolat obtained as a by-product of rose oil production by distilling Rosa damascena flowers, carrying the water-soluble scent components. Its main volatile component is 2-phenylethyl alcohol. It acts as a fragrant, mildly toning product; controlled human studies on moisture, spots or wrinkles are almost non-existent.

Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is a vegetable oil with a very high saturated fat share, about half of its fatty acids being lauric acid. It has been studied as a moisturiser on dry skin, and it has reduced protein loss in hair strands in the laboratory. It is not harmful for everyone, but caution is needed for oily and acne-prone faces due to the pore risk.

Castor Oil

Castor oil is a thick oil obtained from the seed of Ricinus communis, in which about 90% of the fatty acids are ricinoleic acid. In cosmetics it is used as a softener and gloss agent. No controlled human study is known showing that it lengthens eyelashes or eyebrows; the hair-growth claim also rests on laboratory-level data.

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a water-attracting molecule that occurs naturally in the body and is mostly used in cosmetics as sodium hyaluronate. It makes skin feel more hydrated and soft without adding oil, which is why it is applied to slightly damp skin and then covered with a cream. Its effect lasts as long as you use it; it is not expected to cure spots, acne or deep wrinkles.

Silk Protein

Silk protein is the name used in cosmetics for sericin and fibroin obtained from silkworm cocoons; on labels it most often appears as Hydrolyzed Silk. Its small water-soluble pieces leave a slippery and soft feel on the hair and skin. There is no strong study showing that it repairs hair; the evidence rests on a small number of experiments and information from similar proteins.

Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil is obtained from the seed of the Simmondsia chinensis plant. It is in fact not a triglyceride; about 98% of it is a liquid with a wax-like structure. This structure makes it resistant to oxidation. It only partly resembles sebum; that it balances sebum production has not been shown. Human data on skin and hair are limited.

Caffeine

Caffeine (INCI: Caffeine) is a small, water-soluble methylxanthine molecule; it can pass into the skin and hair roots, and inside the cell it inhibits phosphodiesterase. It is used in eye-area, cellulite and scalp products. For all three claims the data come from small, short studies, mostly of multi-ingredient formulas.

Keratin

Keratin is the main structural protein of hair, the outer layer of skin and nails; the durability and flexibility of the hair strand depend largely on it. Care products use hydrolyzed keratin, the broken-down form; it supports the strand from its surface but cannot rebuild lost structure, and its effect fades with washing. Keratin straightening in salons, on the other hand, is a separate chemical process.

Coenzyme Q10

Coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone) is a fat-soluble molecule that the body makes itself, involved in energy production in cells and in antioxidant defence. Its level in the skin decreases with age, but the measured decline is not as large as marketing suggests. It can reach the epidermis via a cream; wrinkle data are small and largely manufacturer-sourced.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a skin-brightening ingredient: a tyrosinase-inhibiting molecule in the melanin production chain, produced by moulds such as Aspergillus and Penicillium. In the EU it may be used only in face and hand products, at most 1%. Allergy has been reported, though rarely, and thyroid findings in animal experiments were decisive in discussing this limit.

Collagen

Collagen is a family of structural proteins that give firmness to the middle layer of the skin; type I makes up most of adult skin collagen. Its production slows after the twenties, and sunlight accelerates its breakdown. The hair strand itself is keratin. Hydrolyzed collagen in cosmetics does not replace the skin's collagen; it works as a humectant.

Colloidal Oatmeal

Colloidal oatmeal is a powder obtained by finely grinding whole oat grains that disperses in water. Starch and beta-glucan coat the skin's surface, and avenanthramides show a soothing effect in the laboratory. There are controlled studies on dry, itchy skin, but most are short, and a significant portion is sector-funded; oat sensitivity should also not be neglected.

Rosehip Oil

Rosehip oil is an oil obtained from the seed or fruit of Rosa species, very rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, and prone to rapid spoilage. There is promising animal data on wound models, but no controlled human study is known showing that it reduces wrinkles the way a retinoid does.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid, from the AHA family, is an acid that helps dead cells slough off and is also among the skin's own moisture-holding components. It is used at low concentrations for roughness and dryness; as the concentration rises, its effect deepens. Being an AHA, it requires sun protection and can sting on sensitive skin.

Lavender Oil

Lavender oil is a volatile oil distilled mainly from Lavandula angustifolia flowers, rich in linalool and linalyl acetate. There are small studies suggesting its scent reduces anxiety, but these cannot be carried over to skin care. Once spoiled by air its allergenic potential increases; it should not be applied neat to the skin.

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is an AHA, a molecule about twice the size of glycolic acid. It is often said to be gentler and to carry less risk on darker skin; but this view rests more on molecular size and clinical peel studies. Strong data comparing it side by side with glycolic acid in home products are scarce.

Menthol

Menthol is a compound found in mint species or produced synthetically; it does not actually cool the skin, but gives a sensation of coolness by stimulating the TRPM8 cold receptor on nerve endings. Low concentrations cause no problems for most people, but it can irritate sensitive skin, and burns have rarely been reported with high-concentration pain products.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and can help lighten dark spots, fine lines, and the appearance of texture. Most of the data come from small and short studies at 2-5%; at 5% it produced a meaningful difference in spots, while at 2% it did not. Findings on sebum are mixed, and in acne it does not replace the main treatment.

Orchid Extract

Orchid extract is a plant extract prepared from the flower, leaf or stem of orchid plants, used in cosmetics with the expectation of a moisturising or antioxidant effect. Its evidence rests largely on laboratory data; there is no strong human study measuring its effect on hair. So it is more accurate to see it as a supporting addition rather than the formula's main active ingredient.

Panthenol

Panthenol is a care ingredient that, when applied to the skin, converts to vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) and attracts water; it may help support the feeling of moisture in skin and hair, and the recovery of the barrier in skin. The most solid data is on moisture and water loss; findings on hair strand strength are limited to the laboratory. There is no evidence that it stops hair shedding; a doctor should be seen for eczema that does not go away or a deep wound.

PDRN (Salmon DNA)

PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) mostly consists of DNA fragments purified from salmon or trout milt. Its main evidence comes from injection and wound healing studies; injection is a physician procedure, not a cosmetic one. In creams and serums, how much of this large molecule penetrates is debated, human data are very few, and injection results cannot be carried over to a cream.

Peptide

A peptide is a structure smaller than a protein, formed by amino acids joining in short chains; it is used in creams to reduce the look of fine lines and roughness. Human studies are small and short, and getting past the skin is also a main obstacle, so expecting a mild effect is realistic. It does not replace sunscreen or retinol, and it does not act like a botox injection.

PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)

PHA (polyhydroxy acid) is the name for gentle exfoliating acids such as gluconolactone, which carry many hydroxyl groups and have larger molecules than AHAs. It holds water and, in comparison, has caused less stinging than glycolic acid. It is considered for sensitive skin, but part of the data is manufacturer-linked and its effect may fall somewhat behind glycolic acid.

Polyglutamic Acid (PGA)

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is a long chain of glutamic acid produced by bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis, and also found in the sticky part of natto. It is used to form a water-holding film on the skin surface. Human data are limited; claims that it is superior to hyaluronic acid and holds thousands of times its weight in water have not been shown by independent studies.

Resveratrol

Resveratrol is a polyphenol found in plants such as grape skin, known for its antioxidant effect. Although presented in creams as anti-ageing, the evidence is limited: laboratory and animal data are abundant, human studies are few, and most are in combined formulas. In a new trial with a 1,5% cream alone, it did not outperform placebo on wrinkles.

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

Retinal (retinaldehyde) is the intermediate step between retinol and retinoic acid in the vitamin A family, and is one enzymatic step away from the active form. In a small study it showed more improvement than retinol, and less irritation than retinoic acid has been reported. It is not used during pregnancy and breastfeeding; consult a doctor.

Retinol

Retinol is a fat-soluble molecule from the vitamin A family; in the skin it is first converted to retinal, then to its active form, retinoic acid. In this way it can affect cell renewal and genes related to collagen, but it is about 20 times weaker than retinoic acid. It is not used during pregnancy and breastfeeding; consult a doctor.

Salicylic Acid

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can penetrate into pores because it dissolves in oil, and it is most often tried on blackheads and whiteheads. It is found at 0,5-2% in over-the-counter products; starting infrequently and not skipping the moisturizer limits dryness. It is insufficient for severe acne; during pregnancy, breastfeeding, and in young children, ask a doctor first.

Snail Mucin

Snail mucin, listed on labels as Snail Secretion Filtrate, is the filtered form of snail secretion. It contains allantoin, glycolic acid, proteins and glycosaminoglycans, and may give a sense of moisture and softness. The evidence is limited to a few small studies, and it has not been shown in independent trials to be superior to a good moisturiser.

Ceramide

Ceramide is the main component of the lipids that hold cells together in the uppermost layer of skin; when applied as a cream, it can help dry and sensitive skin feel more comfortable by slowing water loss. Barrier measurements show positive results, but in eczema severity, a ceramide product has not always outperformed a placebo cream in every study. The practical way to add it to your routine is to apply a ceramide moisturizer after washing, while the skin is still damp.

Shea Butter

Shea butter is a semi-solid vegetable fat at room temperature, obtained from the kernel of the shea tree that grows in Africa. It contains oleic and stearic acids in close proportions and leaves a softening film on the skin. There are small studies on eczema; human data on whether it clogs pores are weak.

Silicone

Silicone is a family of synthetic polymers built on a chain of silicon and oxygen, giving slipperiness and a smooth feel in cosmetics; the best known are dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane. Safety assessments find the dimethicone group safe as used, and the European Union restriction covers only certain cyclic silicones, mainly for environmental reasons.

Squalane

Squalane is a light oil obtained by hydrogenating squalene found in sebum; it is not easily degraded by air and can give softness to the skin and a smooth look to hair ends. Since it does not provide water, it is not a substitute for a moisturizer. Because it has no strong clinical evidence for wrinkles, spots or acne, keep expectations limited to a softening step.

Sweet Almond Oil

Sweet almond oil is an oil obtained from the kernel of the edible almond, rich in oleic acid, used as a softener on dry skin. Studies on cracks and dry hands are small, most were done with multi-ingredient products, and controlled data on hair are scarce. If you have a nut allergy, consult your doctor before use.

Tranexamic Acid

Tranexamic acid is a lysine-derived drug used to reduce bleeding; its topical forms can support uneven tone and the appearance of melasma by suppressing the plasmin pathway that stimulates melanin production. Small studies reported mild or moderate improvement at ratios of 2-5% and good tolerance. Evaluation requires 8-12 weeks and strict sun protection; only a doctor plans the oral form.

Urea

Urea (INCI: Urea) is a small molecule that forms part of the skin's natural moisturising factor. At low concentrations it holds moisture and supports the barrier; above 10% it begins to soften the dead cell layer, and at 30% and above it has a strong keratolytic effect. It can sting on sensitive or cracked skin.

Grape Seed Oil

Grape seed oil is an oil obtained from the seeds, a by-product of wine production, in which about 66-75% of the fatty acids are linoleic acid. Its polyunsaturated structure makes it an oil that oxidises quickly. Antioxidants from the seed extract pass into the oil in very small amounts, and there are limited human data on the oil alone.

Green Tea Extract

Green tea extract is a plant extract obtained from Camellia sinensis leaves and containing catechins, mainly EGCG. There are small studies on sebum and acne in applied forms, and dose-dependent data on UV redness. The evidence is nevertheless limited, and it does not replace sunscreen.

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