What Is Rose Water, What Does It Do? Hydrolat and Realistic Expectations

When the steam from the distillation still cools, two layers form: a very small amount of rose oil on top and a large amount of water below. This water retains part of the oil and the water-soluble scent components. This is what is called hydrolat, and it appears as a by-product of rose oil production. So it is not the same as an ordinary "rose-scented water".

How does rose water differ from rose oil?

These sample measurements come from rose varieties grown in India. Values vary with the variety, harvest period and distillation, so do not assume the same figures for Isparta rose. Because 2-phenylethyl alcohol is water-soluble, it accumulates in the hydrolat, and in rose oil it is far less. More about the source of rose scent is on the rose essence page.

What should you look for when buying in Turkey?

Turkey and Bulgaria are considered the two main production centres of rose oil. In Turkey, Isparta, Burdur, Afyonkarahisar and Denizli also produce. Because very different figures circulate for production shares, no ratio is given here. When buying, check the ingredient list:

• Rosa Damascena Flower Water: Indicates that it is a genuine distillation product.
• Aqua and Parfum: It may be scented water that contains no rose hydrolat.
• Preservative: Seeing a preservative in rose water is not a bad sign; the reason is below.

What is a realistic expectation for the skin?

In a cell experiment, formulas containing rose reduced inflammatory signals triggered by oxidative stress in human fibroblasts. This is an interesting clue, but not a skin result. We know of no controlled human study on increased skin moisture, reduced spots or wrinkles. A study from a Turkish laboratory that examined three rose water samples found no antibacterial effect against the bacteria tested, including staphylococcus; so there is no basis for claims that it "kills germs" or "dries acne".

The realistic role of rose water is this: to give a pleasant scent and a light refreshing feeling, and to be used as a toner before the moisturiser after cleansing. This can be a pleasant step, but it is not a substitute for treatment.

Does it spoil, and does it cause allergy?

Because hydrolat is water-based, it is open to microbial growth. Non-volatile components that pass into the water during distillation can serve as food for microbes, and in contaminated hydrolat samples about 10 million viable microbes per millilitre were measured. Researchers say that without sterile production, preservatives are needed for it to last for months. In the three samples above no growth was found, so the problem is not in every product, but there is a risk in uncontrolled bottles.

• Choose a closed, dated package rather than an open-mouthed container, and store it in a cool place after opening.
• If you see cloudiness, sediment or a sour smell, do not use it.
• Do not drop it into the eye. Rose water is not an eye drop; do not assume it is sterile.
• Rose oil and extract are among the scent allergens that must be named separately in the EU. If you are allergic to scent, rose water may also react; test the new product first on the inner arm, twice a day, for 7-10 days. If you have sensitive skin, start with a simple routine.